Repurposing a Classic Suit Jacket

My journal is, among other things, a place to remember, record, and refine ideas in the works. When thinking about making or redesigning apparel it often helps to sketch out the idea and think about how to proceed. Fashion designers typically create sketches and/or drape fabric on mannequins or models before creating the final design. in this case, we begin with three webbed belts and a classic blazer from my skirt suit days.

My plan is to incorporate the three webbed belts in the front of the jacket only using one at the neckline. The belts will be cinched after slipping into the jacket.

Here you can see the inspiration; a jacket in Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection for Dior.

Maria Grazia Chiuri created buckled vests influenced by fencing attire in 2017. Photos for the collection included those of models with swords and wearing face protection used in fencing.

One of the most striking depictions of the vest is this black and white image by photographer, Richard Phibbs.

This stunning jacket is the work of Hodakova, a Stockholm based fashion house founded in 2021 by Ellen Hodakova Larsson. The design house was awarded the Grand Prize of LVMH for young fashion designers in 2024. The biographical statement closely aligns with my personal preferences in creative endeavors, placing emphasis on repurposed materials and timeless methods.

This ca. 1904 fencing jacket would be acceptable street wear for today!

Here is a contemporary quilted fencing jacket from Steel-Mastery.com.

The clash of swords is in my literary history from avid readings of the exploits of The Three Musketeers…

to the misadventures and struggles in Don Quixote.

Multiple viewings of both The Legend of Zorro and The Mask of Zorro have also inspired me.

As such, it is with little regret and much inspiration from past and present the repurposing of this jacket and three unused webbed belts from cargo pants begins.

The first step is to cut the webbed belts in pieces and plan the placement on the jacket.

Each piece is sewn in place so the stitching does not show when the pieces are buckled together in front. The pieces of webbing are sewn over the side seams of the jacket.

It seemed a good idea to add flat loops to hold the straps in place when buckled. These are pinned in in place. One end is sewn on the machine and the other by hand.

When the midriff straps were in place the jacket detailing seemed out of balance.

To complete the look an additional strap was placed around the collar of the jacket. The loop for this strap is at the back of the neck.

Trying on the repurposed jacket! It is surprisingly comfortable and, as you might expect, feels quite secure. Looking forward to wearing it this fall with a maxi skirt and boots!


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