Peter Copping: Fashion Designer, Interior Designer, Antiquarian

One morning while having coffee and reading with my husband I said, more to myself than anyone else, “Can’t remember which design house has just hired Peter Copping as its artistic director…” My brilliant husband who is constantly building his knowledge base replied, “Lanvin…”

(Photo credit Billal Taright)

Peter Copping is best known as a fashion designer. His designs are elegant, thought provoking and immensely covetable. He is also a cerebral craftsman of evocative interiors where antiques are both ornamental and occasionally whimsical. This is a photo of his dining room at La Carliere, a 15^th century manor in Normandy where he and his husband, fellow designer Rambert Rigaud, live on weekends and holidays.

You may see the evidence of his work as a fashion designer though the canary yellow underskirt on the table, or the rumbled linen drape of the overskirt. His use of color in the room reflects the essence of an Old Master still life; chairs covered in a verdure-like tapestry, antique dishes painted with tiny florals, bottle green wine glasses, the reflective brass sconce on the plaster walls…visually and mentally arresting.

Another view of the room!

(Photo credit Billal Taright)

This photo of his studio at La Carliere demonstrates how he works, surrounded by antiques, fabrics, and passementerie. In a filmed interview for Quintessence with Susanna Salk we see the walls of the upstairs hallways covered in burlap, with brass studs around the doorframes and 17^th century embroidery pieces framed and hanging on the walls.

Peter Copping seems to respect and revere the past as he pushes it forward, rethinking and envisioning possibilities. This image of a ballerina slingback is posted on Lanvin’s Instagram as “…a reinterpretation of the House’s iconic ballerina flat…” If you enlarge it a bit you will see the the raw edges of the grosgrain ribbon exposed in a beautiful, undone finish.

Here in this photo, also from the Lanvin Instagram, is a jacket simultaneously crisp and gently flowing, yet somewhat severe.

This severity is lessened by the interjection of a neck ornament that looks almost like crystal beads, reminiscent of a vintage beaded button in my collection.

(www.fashiongonerogue.com)

Hired as the creative director for Nina Ricci in 2009, Peter Copping’s charge was to reinvent the iconic and classic French fashion house, enhancing its appeal while retaining its reputation for femininity. In an interview with Lou Stoppard for SHOWstudio, the designer defined femininity as “Women who feel comfortable with themselves and can express themselves.” He expands by noting femininity in dressing is made up of certain silhouettes – body conscious without vulgarity.

This cocktail dress from the Spring, 2012 collection with a bodice made of what appears to be bits and pieces of various laces trailing off and regenerating themselves in an asymmetrical flounce at the end of the gathered skirt is to me, exquisite and delicate. The richness of detail holds our attention and yet is not overbearing.

(www.fashiongonerogue.com)

This undone suit from the same collection seems prophetic with the embellished gathered skirt, and the unbuttoned cardigan with a matching bralette; all pieces which frequent today’s fashion collections.

(www.magazinespain.com)

This lace skirt with the oversized double breasted wool jacket and opera pumps for Nina Ricci in Fashion Week 2015 is a nice blend of femininity and power dressing.

These two ornamental gowns and the cocktail dress with the slashed hem from his first collection for Oscar de la Renta in the Fall of 2015 demonstrate his ability to respect a beloved fashion house while refining and redefining the vision.

The collection featuring a taffeta dress accented with black ribbon and lace was deemed his strongest ever for Oscar de la Renta.

These suits are imminently wearable; professional with a punch!

The dresses made by combining more than one fabric are intriguing and exquisite.

Peter Copping is well known for his fashion sketches. One of his first assignments was to sit beside Christian Lacroix and draw the final version of each look from the model as well as variations on the look such as pairing a jacket with a skirt rather than pants. This drawing for Nina Ricci is one of my favorites. What would a crew necked sweater and matching short full skirt look like with long gloves and heels? Quite relevant today as it was then!

(wwd.com)

While he was in New York as the creative director for Oscar de la Renta’s fashion house, Peter Copping created costume designs for the New York City ballet. These are some of his sketches.

(www.brabbu.com)

Peter Copping is a multi-faceted, multi-talented individual. His film and print interviews give us insight into his personal history and his artistic process.  Though it is unlikely I will ever meet him, I can be inspired by his dedication to beauty as seen in the clothing and interiors he designs and in the antiques he collects and makes a part of his life.

We grow when we can look to others for some of our inspiration. Who are the people who inspire you?